Haden Mangos

In 1889 the USDA planted three mango trees from India in West Palm Beach. One of them survived the 1895 freeze and, three years later, bore tasty fruit. South Florida horticulturalists were delighted. One of them, Captain Haden of Coconut Grove, bought 30 seeds and planted them. In 1910 an accidental cross between one of those trees and a turpentine mango bore fruit. Florence Haden named the new, surprisingly improved variety after her husband, and, as they say, the rest is history. South Floridians are still growing and eating Haden mangos.

Here is Florence Hayden’s 1912 recipe for mango chutney:

“Ten large fine mangoes, one-half pint seeded raisins, one-half pint lime juice, one-half pint vinegar, two chili peppers, two garlic buttons grated, one medium-sized onion, one tablespoonful white mustard seed, one tablespoonful ground ginger, one heaping tablespoonful of salt, one and one-half pounds brown sugar. Pare and cut mangoes in small pieces. Put all ingredients in a crock or bowl. Let it stand covered over night, and cook it very slowly next morning for three hours. Put in glass jars or bottles, and seal at once.”

Postcard: “Haden Mangoes on Tropical Treasures Grove, Fort Myers, Florida.” ca. 1940. Image no. 1979-011-235.

-- Rebecca A. Smith, Curator of Research Materials

97-Year Old Mango Recipes

In 1912 the women of the First Presbyterian Church compiled and published a book—Miami’s first locally produced cookbook. Browsing through The Florida Tropical Cookbook, one discovers that Miamians of a century ago grew and ate mangos, especially in desserts and preserves. Here are a few of their recipes:

“Mango Dumplings. In any recipe where peaches or apples are to be used, substitute ripe mangoes.

“Fried Mangoes. Select mangoes that are not ripe enough to be stringy, peel and slice thin; put tablespoonful butter in frying pan, heat and add mangoes; add sugar, and nutmeg and cinnamon; cover and cook slowly so as not to burn.

“Green Mango Pie. This is equal to rhubarb pie and is so similar to it that many persons mistake the mango pie for it. Peel and slice the green mangoes. Line the pan with good paste and put the fruit into it. Sprinkle with sugar and flour and add a tablespoonful of water.

“Ripe Mango Pie. Peel and slice ripe fruit and proceed as above, using less sugar.

“Mango Ice Cream. Prepare mangoes as for marmalade—about half a dozen for two-quart freezer. Use any good ice cream recipe, and freeze as fruit cream.

“Mango Marmalade. Peel well ripe mangoes and grate on a coarse grater; strain through a copper sieve to take out fiber; boil with a little less than equal part sugar until stiff.

“Canned Mangoes. Peel the fruit and cut into neat slices, cutting from stem end. Put in boiling syrup, boil ten minutes, and place in well sterilized jars and seal at once. Make a syrup by using one cupful of sugar and one cupful of water. Do not attempt to cook a large quantity at one time or the slices will break up.

“Mango Jelly. For jelly the green fruit is used. Peel and cook the green fruit. Strain and to each cupful of boiling juice, add one cupful of sugar. Boil until jelly forms when the juice is dropped from a spoon.

“Mango Sweet Pickle. Choose nice, firm mangoes; pare and slice them. To every quart of fruit, allow a cupful of white sugar and a large pint of good vinegar, adding just enough whole cloves to flavor as you like; too many will turn the fruit dark. Let it come to a boil and put in the mangoes and cook until they are thoroughly heated. Too much cooking will make them mushy. Put into jars and seal while hot.

“Mango Chutney. Five pounds of the fruit after it is peeled and cut off the seed, two pounds sugar, two quarts vinegar. Cook until smooth and thick, stirring to keep from burning. When it is thick enough to drop from spoon, take off the fire. Add two pounds seeded raisins, two ounces ground mustard, two ounces ground ginger, four ounces salt, one-quarter small teaspoonful of ground cayenne pepper. Mix, let stand till next day, stirring often. Then reheat and pack in small glass jars and seal. Fine with meat, or for sandwiches.

“East India Mango Chutney. Five pounds of ripe mangoes, or tart apples, two pounds brown sugar, two quarts cider vinegar. Cook this until smooth and thick. Take up and add one pound Sultana raisins (chopped), one clove of garlic (if liked), two ounces ground mustard seed, two ounces ginger root, four ounces salt, three pods red pepper (chopped). Mix, let stand eight hours. Stir thoroughly. Heat this through; pack in small jars, and seal. Use for cold meats or for sandwiches. Will keep years in a cool place.”

Whew! These recipes sure give a modern cook plenty of guess work!

-- Rebecca A. Smith, Curator of Research Materials

Illustration: from a 19th century lithograph.
Image no. 1995-293-1